Wellington Walks: Otari-Wilton’s Bush and Skyline Walkway

Article | Otari-Wilton’s Bush is the only public botanic garden in New Zealand dedicated solely to native plants, home to an 800 year old rimu tree and bursting at the seams with birdlife – the perfect place for an outdoor adventure with the family.

It was a crisp and cold Sunday afternoon as I entered Otari-Wilton’s Bush via the canopy walk, perched 18 metres above the forest floor. I could hear the electronic call tui in the nearby tree tops. I planned to walk the Blue Trail, which would take approximately one-and-a-half hours under the cover of rimu and kohekohe forest. I was also considering a steep detour to the Skyline Walkway with the hope of an epic view of Wellington and the wind turbines before returning to the Blue Trail within Otari-Wilton’s Bush and completing the loop.

Within 5-minutes of starting I heard the distinct sound of the large, plump kereru (New Zealand pigeon) passing overhead – flapping loudly, almost manically. I watched the emerald chested bird flap to a nearby low branch. I readied the camera for action and slowly approached. The kereru obviously wasn’t concerned by my presence as I got within 3 feet to take the photograph. And then I spotted another half dozen kereru and several tui – it promised to be a good day for spotting native birds.

I passed a grassy plain where children played, chasing one-and-other, before falling to the ground laughing. Adults watched from the nearby BBQ’s, as the smell of sizzling sausages wafted through the air. I crossed a small wooden bridge – lowering to one knee to get a shot up and down stream, whilst looking for eyes in the shallow water. I had soon left the sound of children behind, as I headed up a steep, narrow and somewhat slippery track – making my way deeper into the forest. Following blue trail markers, I passed several groups of walkers, heading in the opposite direction – all smiling and laughing. As we greeted each other, a large kaka (brown parrot) flew down the trail towards us and landed on a branch just feet away. The kaka hopped from branch to branch whilst pulling chunks of bark from the tree, entertaining the crowd, all of whom manically tried to get a shot of the kaka, whom of which was deep in concentration trying to get his piece of bark.

I crossed several small streams, glistening in rays of sunlight peeping through the dense trees, and edged by native green ferns – giving the area a somewhat magical feel. The trail wound forest, coming to a set of dark worn, wooden steps, disappearing into the distance. I began to climb the steps through atmospheric kohekohe forest, removing my rain jacket and fleece as I quickly heated up. Even through the temperature was barely 15 degrees.

As I increased in altitude via a combination of steps and a well worn, wet and slippery trail, I arrived at my detour point – the Skyline Walkway. The surroundings and colours swiftly changed from lush greens to dry browns, as a line of tall, golden looking pine trees led the way to an opening and steep hill. The sunlight streamed through, reflecting off the brown foliage and making it look like gold.

I climbed the rough and rocky trail following it up, up and up. My legs burned. The wind quickly increased as I left the cover of the trees and buffered me from all angles. Views of the wind turbines in Makara came into sight – dotted on high points, looking miniature in size. I spotted a slightly higher point which offered 360 degree views of Wellington below in the distance – turquoise harbour waters, green, yellow and brown hills and houses scattered around.

Holding onto my hat so not to lose it in the gusts, I returned to the Blue Trail and took refuge from the wind in the forest. I followed the trail down through the kohekohe trees, once again, the light dimmed, blocked out by the sprawling branches – slipping and sliding and clinging to trees, branches and rocks on my way down. Slowly but surely making my way to a 800 hundred year old rimu tree.

Looking up at the giant rimu and the epiphytes which had made a home within its branches, adding bulk to its already massive size,I took a few shots of the impressive structure that stood proud in front of me. I heard voices of a group of people approaching in the distance and decided to head off, seeking to prolong my moment of solitude. I continued to cling to trunks and branches to aid my descent, making my way back to the bridge – my start and finish point within Otari-Wilton’s Bush. After a lunch break of a cheese sandwich, apple and drink of water at the picnic area, I made my way towards the exit 10 minutes away. I spotted more kereru and tui feeding on berries in the trees and couldn’t resist a few more photographs of the New Zealand natives – spending another 30 minutes watching, taking shots and generally enjoying watching the native wildlife in the nearby trees.

I walked for 3 hours including many photograph stops, lunch and a detour up to the Skyline Walkway, in wet and slippery conditions. I highly recommend Otari-Wilton’s Bush and the Skyline Walkway for an outdoor adventure – perfect for trail running, walking and spotting native birds. The ideal spot for all the family with a variety of short and longer trails available to suit all needs. Ample parking is available at the entrance of Otari-Wilton’s Bush. It is also very easy to take public transport to the park – with regular number 14 buses leaving from Lambton Quay to Wilton.

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Hi, I’m Adam Constanza, freelance travel content creator living, working and supporting tourism in Timor Leste, South East Asia.

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